Golden Monkeys and the Smaller Treks of the Virungas

Everyone comes to the Virungas for the gorillas. Fewer people know about the golden monkeys — and that's a pity, because a golden monkey trek is one of the most joyful mornings in East African wildlife. WHO THEY ARE The golden monkey is a subspecies of the blue monkey, and its dazzling coat — a deep gold with a black cap, cheeks, and tail — is unique to the Virunga volcanoes. Their range is tiny: a few thousand square kilometres shared between Rwanda, Uganda, and the DR Congo. THE TREK A golden monkey trek is a gentle walk compared to the gorillas — rarely more than 45 minutes of hiking. You're escorted by two rangers who track the troop by the sound of bamboo breaking. The monkeys ignore you almost entirely: feeding, wrestling, and leaping through the bamboo right above your head. WHY WE LOVE IT The light. Golden monkeys move through the canopy in shafts of morning sun, and the photo opportunities are honestly better than a gorilla trek for pure colour. It also rounds out a Rwanda itinerary at a fraction of the gorilla permit cost — around 100 USD. OTHER SMALL TREKS WORTH BOOKING Volcanoes National Park also offers the Dian Fossey tomb hike — a full-day climb through the very forest where Fossey lived and worked — and a climb to the summit of Mount Bisoke, which crosses the crater lake of the same name. Both are superb additions for travellers with an extra day. OUR ADVICE If you have three nights around the Virungas, add the golden monkeys on the day after your gorilla trek. It's light, it's joyful, and it reminds you that this mountain range holds far more than the headline act.